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Dec 15, 2021

Nogliki (Russian: Но́глики NOH-glee-kee) is a city in on the island of Sakhalin in Russian Far East, roughly 2/3 up the island. The name is a canny reference to the booming oil business here as it’s derived from the indigenous Nivkh word noghl-vo which means ‘smelling-village’. Around 10,000 people live here, and as the intro might suggest – it’s one of the main population centers for the Nivkh tribe.

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  • Nogliki Airport (Аэропорт Ноглики,ICAO:UHSN) for years a rough airstrip, now has a 1750-m paved runway and a fancy terminal building – made possible by a multi-million dollar investment from the oil industry. SAT Airlines flies chartered flights with a Dash-8 to Yuzno-Sakhalinsk and occasionally Khabarovsk for the oil companies, call +7 4242 739-000 to secure a spot on the 5-10 seats usually left for regular passengers.
  • Nogliki Railway station (Ноглики вокзал) 613 kilometers north of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk has a daily nighttrain arriving from Yuzhno at 10:45, returning south again at 18:20, the journey takes just over 13 hours, and stops in Tymovsk on the way for bus connections to Alexandrovsk-Sakhalinsky. A 6-wheeled bus connects with the train to take you 250 km up a grueling dirt road to Okha in the far north of the island.
A train at Nogliki station

Both the airport and the station are located a few kilometers southwest of the main city in a suburb like area. Marshrutkys shuttle passengers there regularly for a few rubles.

  • Sakhalin Historical & Ethnographic Museum (Сахалинский историко-этнографический музей), ul. Fizkulturnaja 2, +7 424340 7-1245. Housed in a rather shabby looking wooden building, the museum has around 3,000 items up for display in a space of over 200 m². It also serves as a cultural center for the Nivkh tribe, and besides displays of traditional tools, you’ll also find Nivkhs studying their own culture and history. 
  • Ostrovok Zoo (Частный зоопарк ‘Островок’), ul. Dachnaya 1A, +7 42444 9-7650. Opened in 2005, this rather bizarre and depressing zoo spreads over about a hectare and has 67 species up for display. 

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